Maria Samora Fine Jewelry - Taos Pueblo
- By Shemai Rodriguez
- Oct 17, 2016
- 4 min read
Maria Samora’s jewelry designs have a transcendent quality, as if they are talismans communicating a philosophy of order and harmony from a more erudite civilization. It was surprising to learn that this quality is more the result of perfected technique than inner voice or lofty process of inspiration.
“Simple things have to be perfect. “
Maria’s collections are large and varied, but all with a common theme. Her designs have a minimalist quality. “It represents the simplicity of life.” She says. “Less is more.” She goes on to describe how challenging it is to keep from over embellishing a piece. The embellishment is the grace of the lines and the interest created by texture and the combining different colored metals.
“I feel like I’ve just scratched the surface.”
Maria sees to the design and crafting of each piece, beginning as she creates her own alloys. She starts with raw 24K nuggets which she gets largely from a company that uses recycled metals rather than metals that are being mined from the earth. Then, depending on the color and strength of the alloy that she wants for a particular piece, she blends in copper or silver. Her favorite blend, she says, is 18K royal yellow gold which has a “rich, regal look.” She then forms the alloy into sheets or wire which allows her to not only to obtain the color she wants, but also the thickness.
Her design process is very organic and can follow any number of paths. Designs begin as a sketch. Then she sometimes uses computer software to refine it. Other times the pieces are made as a prototype. Sometimes she begins with a hand-picked stone that dictates how the piece will be made. There is no set series of steps.
Production on the other hand is very precise. “It’s really important to write things down so I don’t forget.” The order of the steps, for example, can be crucial. Should the piece be textured first or bent first? Sometimes the stamping is first, sometimes it’s last.
There are also chemical processes to maintain. One such process requires a precise combination of water, sulfuric acid, potassium nitrate, salt and just enough heat. Based in an Incan technique during which they would bury their gold pieces of art and jewelry in the sand and salt water, the process depletes the metals blended into the gold leaving a 24K layer on the surface of the piece for richer color but retaining the more durable alloy underneath.
The complexity of jewelry making means you need a lot of experience to get it right. Even then, things still go wrong. There is a lot of fine tuning. That commitment to quality and the tried and tested skill that Maria brings to her work is apparent in every piece. The simplicity that inspires her remains a constant voice in her aesthetic and is one of the things that makes her work so universally appealing.
“He’ll be my mentor for life.”
Born in Taos in 1975, Maria has spent her life here and developed her career here. It was the serendipitous relationship with master gem cutter and goldsmith Phil Poirier that allowed her to enjoy life in a small town while developing such sophisticated levels of technique and aesthetic, not to mention business management skills and marketing ability.
She began training with Phil in 1998 and has remains his protege and friend today. She met him by chance after a girlfriend suggested they take a jewelry course at UNM. Maria didn’t feel the classes would carry her to the levels of jewelery making that she aspired to achieve so she took an intensive workshop with Phil at the Taos Institute of Art. By the second day she was amazed at the number of bench tricks she learned in such a short time. She asked if she could apprentice with him. Later that summer she got a call and the relationship began.
Phil took her through a traditional European style apprenticeship, beginning with menial tasks like taking out the trash and polishing. But he was a good teacher, motivating her to sit with a sketch book and design her own pieces. Once a week he would work with her to help her develop as a jeweler.
She has taken other courses through the years, such a gem setting courses, but by far the greatest contribution to her development as a professional jewelry artist was made by Phil Poirier. She still calls him almost daily. “He has been more than a mentor. He has been a fatherly figure who has taught me all of the ins and outs.”
“I look for inspiration all over the place.”
Today, while Maria’s work has been informed by the style of jewelry designer Michael Zobel and his use of contrasting metals, she does not point to a singular source of inspiration. She finds inspiration all around, which is not surprising as she grew up in a landscape that has inspired countless artists. Additionally, she comes from a creative family. Maria’s mom made jewelry when she was younger. Her father Frank Samora, has also made jewelry among other things. She describes him as a free spirit. Maria considered her brother to be the artist of the family. He went to The Institute of American Indian Arts and got his degree. Maria didn’t begin her work as a jewelry artist until she was in college.
“It’s about balance.”
A large part of Maria’s appeal is the professionalism with which she runs the business of her art. Finding time to deal with the paperwork and administration of her career and still find time to sit at her bench is an ongoing struggle; a daily struggle, she says. There is the added commitment she has made to her two children and her husband and business partner Kevin, who is an integral part of her career. Kevin and Maria have worked side by side for 10 years. Plus, she still feels the need to learn. There are times when she feels that all she wants to do is make jewelry.
She was fortunate that mentor Phil Poirier not only taught her jewelry making technique, but also how to market and sell her work as well. As a result, Maria’s professional presence and marketing reach has the same power as her beautiful designs.
Contact Maria:
575-779-0982
842 Paseo del Pubelo Norte
Taos, NM 87571
maria@newmex.com
If you talk to Maria, please tell her we sent you.
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